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There may be 2,000 miles separating Taos from New York City but there’s an easy way to transport yourself there in spirit, your nose following an aroma redolent of the finest Italian restaurants that the city and Long Island have to offer. And it’s right here in the heart of town.

Jennifer DeBow, Mondo Italiano partner, knew exactly what she wanted to do when she conceived of the restaurant — she longed to capture the flavor of the East Coast Italian American food that she had enjoyed during her childhood in …